windshield-repair-kit training

WINDSHIELD REPAIR KIT TRAINING MANUAL

INTRODUCTION

Welcome to the Ultra BOND windshield repair kit system training manual! This instruction manual is for the repair of stone breaks. If you have any questions or concerns call us at 800 398-2663 or email rich@ultrabond.com

As you get out into the field and become familiar with your equipment and our repair techniques, you will see how easy it is to repair stone breaks with the Ulotra Bond Windshield Repari Kit.

This windshield repair kit manual is designed to provide you with the instructions you need to learn the basics of the art and science of glass repair. But remember, this is a hands-on business and the only way to become an expert is to do repairs. Read the windshield repair kit instruction manual carefully, and be reassured that if you have any questions, Ultra BOND is here to help. For more information on the internet go to these websites: www.windshieldrepairjournal.com; www.windshieldrepairtools.com;

United States Windshield Repair Guidelines.

(800) 398-2663

8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Mon-Thurs; 8:00 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. Friday

TABLE OF CONTENTS

1. Windshield repair kit check list for the stone-damage kit

2. Items you will need in addition to your kit

3. Notice

4. Safety Warnings

5. Resin

6. Identification of the different breaks

7. Before starting

8. Talking to the customer

9. Preparing the vehicle

10. Repair Procedure

11. Drilling

12. Newest Technology

13. Starting your business

14. Marketing and Advertising

ULTRA BOND STONE DAMAGE WINDSHIELD REPAIR KIT CHECK LIST

1 Classic Crack Master

1 Injector with cap

1 Star Flexor

1 UV lamp

1 Probe

1 Mirror

1 Bullseye Tapper with needle

1 Tweezers

1 Screwdriver

1 Center Punch

1 Drill Bits pack (5 in ea. Pack)

1 Cylinder Cleaning Brush

1 Razor Blade Holder

1 O-ring case

1pk Piston O-rings (12)

1pk Cylinder O-rings (12)

1pk 2" film tabs (24)

1 Pressure disk

1 Needle tip injector

1 Spray bottle

1 Cleaning jar

1 Cordless drill / charger/battery

1 Sunscreen

1 UV Glasses

1 Pit Polish

1 ea. Resins: 20, 40, 60 STONE DAMAGE

1 Pit Filler / Large Pit Adaptor

1 Xtra Bond

1 X-Phobic

1 Plastic scrubby

1 Training Manual

1 Training Video

ITEMS YOU WILL NEED IN ADDITION TO YOUR WINDSHIELD REPAIR KIT

1. Isopropyl (70%) alcohol - for cleaning your tools.

2. Petroleum jelly - (Vaseline) for lubricating suction cups.

3. Glass cleaner.

4. Cleaning rags.

5. Towel or mat for protection of the vehicle’s hood.

6. Penlight.

NOTICE

The only real way to learn about windshield repair is to ACTUALLY DO IT! You should be proficient and comfortable with our stone damage methods after approximately 10-20 repairs.

You must practice INSIDE a garage. This will allow you time to develop your technique and skills without any UV bouncing around to cause the windshield repair resin to prematurely cure.

BEFORE you go out to repair for money, you must first practice. Your name and reputation depend on it. Here are a few ways you can get experience.

1. Purchase a windshield (less than $80.00) and lay it on a rack or on two saw horses. Use the center punch in your windshield repair kit to make breaks and practice drilling.

2. Sacrifice your own windshield. One of the best practice methods is to use the center punch that will create a variety of breaks.

a) Purchase two or three pieces of laminated glass around 12”X12” or 24" x 24". Practice drilling and tapping bullseyes on the glass sheets also.

3. At some point you will have to start repairing real breaks on other people’s windshield. Start with neighbors, relatives or friends. Once you start with customers you do not have to charge if the repair does not turn out well.

You have to practice and you have to do the repairs. Watching may give you some tips but you cannot be confident in your windshield repairs until you’ve done them.

Using the center punch in your windshield repair kit, press it against the glass until it clicks. This will make a stone break.

Remember that like everything else windshield repair takes practice while learning, but you will make mistakes. A break will spread or you may break a drill bit (sometimes they stick in the glass). The spread can be fixed and the drill bit can be removed from the glass, it’s all in how cool you remain when it happens.

SAFETY WARNINGS

1. DO NOT LOOK AT THE ULTRA VIOLET LIGHT. It can damage the retina of your eyes. Wear 100% UV protective sun or safety glasses whenever you have it turned on and make sure the customer is not within it’s range.

2. AVOID GETTING WINDSHIELD REPAIR RESIN AND CHEMICALS ON YOUR SKIN. The resins contain an acid(s), which can cause blistering. Cleanliness is important. Do not allow the resin to drip down your injector. Wear protective polyethylene gloves and/or combine with a protective hand lotion. Wash your hands after each repair.

3. DO NOT GET WINSHIELD REPAIR RESIN ON PAINTED SURFACES. The acid will eat the paint. Make sure you have the customer’s vehicle well protected.

4. THIS PROCESS IS NOT FOR COMMERCIAL AIRCRAFT GLASS.

5. DO NOT PERFORM ANY WINDSHIELD REPAIR THAT MAY HINDER THE DRIVER’S LINE OF VISION.

6. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES for protection against loose glass and resin.

WINDSHIELD REPAIR RESIN

Shelf Life: 2 years at room temperature.

Choosing the proper windshield repair resin(s) for a particular job is a major part of the art and science of windshield repair. Making the right choice will make the windshield repair fast, easy and great looking. Choosing the wrong windshield repair resin can cause trouble while doing the windshield repair and deterioration down the road.

Windshield Repair Resin Safety: We recommend that you wear glasses, gloves or hand protectant lotion when using the resins. Gloves, because some people react to the acid content with continued use, especially in combination with the drying effects of the alcohol used to clean your tools. Ultra Bond carries glove and cotton inner liners. Use your safety glasses provided in your windshield repair kit to protect you from small bits of glass, breaking drill bits, needles or resin.

Windshield Repair Resin Quality & Composition: The Ultra Bond windshield repair resins are the finest in the business. They do contain a small amount of acid because it improves the chemical bonding process to the glass. Windshield repair resins without acid will have a considerably lower adhesive strength, as will windshield repair resins with any contaminant such as pigment used to tint.

CHOOSING A WINDSHIELD REPAIR RESIN:

The underlying basis for choosing windshield repair resin is that you want to use the thickest resin possible, given the circumstances. The circumstances being: temperature and type of damage. Resin reacts to heat like syrup, when it is warmed, it thins, when it cools, it thickens. Temperature will greatly affect the windshield repair resin you choose for a given damage.

Stone damage resins are compatible; meaning you could start with one resin and change to another stone damage resin if necessary.

WINDSHIELD REPAIR RESINS FOR STONE DAMAGE:

Stone damage resins are low viscosity (0-100cps) adhesives and have three characteristics of concern to our repairs:

1. They shrink when they cure;

2. They shrink in inverse proportion to their viscosity., ie., the thinner the resin, the greater percentage of shrinkage; thin resins shrink more than thick resins;

3. These resins begin to cure immediately and completely cure in five (5) minutes in direct sunlight.

Note: If you see bullseyes or combination breaks looking only partially filled after a few months, the resin has shrunk and pulled away from the glass or laminate. The resin used for this repair was too thin. You will rarely see this on the legs of a star break because the space is so minute.

WINDSHIELD REPAIR RESINS - continued

20 CPS: Our thinnest windshield repair resin and is used for stars, star bursts, and small partial bullseyes. It can be used for all breaks on all stone damage on a cold windshield and is your best choice for star breaks. This windshield repair resin will cause “flowering” on a hot windshield. This resin is also used to remove a “runner” which is a thin line of refraction that you may notice after you have cured a long crack. 20 cps can also be used to remove any spots you notice in the crack.

40 CPS: Use for bullseye and combination breaks in warm weather. Use 40 cps on a star break if the windshield is hot. This resin is thicker than 20 cps.

60 CPS: Use for large combination damages or bullseyes and on hot windshields. It can also be used as a pit filler for smaller impact points and on plate glass repairs.

PIT FILLER: Use as a large-pit-adaptor and a pit-filler. The windshield repair resin you used in the break can also be used to pit-fill and will often last longer because that resin has been sitting in the pit and has wet the pit and interacted with the glass and we recommend this method first. If it is not smooth after you scrape then pit fill again using the pit filler.

For more information on windshield repair resins go to www.thewindshieldrepairkits.com and www.windshieldrepairjournal.com

WINDSHIELD REPAIR RESIN QUICK REMINDER CHART

1. Use the thickest resin possible given the circumstances.

2. The circumstances are the temperature and type of damage. You can use a thicker resin in colder temperatures if you increase the temperature of the windshield and resin during the repair.

Type of Damage Temperature

Cold (under 50) Warm (50-75) Hot (80-up)

Star 20 cps 20 cps 40 or 60 cps

Bullseye 40 40 60 or 95

Combination 20 20 and 40* 40 and 60*

Large Combination 20 and 40* 20 and 40* 40 and 60*

*Combination breaks and large combination breaks can be repaired using two stone damage resins. The thinner resin is injected first and is probed to fill the tips of the legs as far as possible. The injector is placed on vacuum cycle, removed and thicker resin is put in. Then the second resin is injected to fill the large impact area, which pushes the thinner resin to the tips of the legs. This reduces the likelihood of shrinkage related problems. Note: The Star Flexor Tool can be used instead of using the first resin as this tool flexes the legs open and holds them open until they are filled.

IDENTIFICATION OF STONE BREAKS

Combination Break Bullseye

It is important that you develop the vocabulary of the windshield repair industry so you can think in windshield repair terms. It also helps you to communicate with us when you need assistance.

BULLSEYE: The easiest repair to perform and rarely needs drilling. *For a partial bullseye - see Drilling section and appendix.

STARBREAK: Is the most common break and is more difficult. This is the break to concentrate on. Drilling may be necessary and the repair must be done carefully to prevent further spreading of the cracks. This break will often need more than just vacuum and pressure to completely fill each leg. The Star Flexor in your windshield repair kit will help achieve complete filling of each leg.

COMBINATION BREAK WITH EXTENDED CRACK: This break is a combination; a bullseye with a star break in the center. This one also has two extended cracks. It is more visible after the repair than the other types of breaks listed above because the legs are at many angles. When there are two extended cracks running horizontal the tips should be drilled, a bullseye tapped and filled to prevent these legs from running.

BEFORE STARTING

It is important for you to know the basic construction of a windshield so that you also understand how the repair is performed with a windshield repair kit. This knowledge will give you more confidence when speaking to your customer.

Car windshields are constructed of two separate sheets of glass with a thin layer of plastic called PVB (the laminate) in between. This type of construction is known as “laminated glass” or “safety glass”.

When a break results in the glass (usually caused by a small stone ), it creates an air gap between the layers, light bounces around inside the air space, causing the break to be visible. It also creates a weak spot in the glass which, if not repaired, will crack further due to movement, stress or temperature changes that cause contraction and expansion of the glass.

With the Ultra BOND method of glass repair, the air gap is filled with an optically clear resin that removes the refraction (light bounce). The resin bonds to the surrounding glass preventing it from spreading. Some things that could prevent a quality repair are: dirt, moisture, Rain-X or similar products.

Head-On Angle and the Profile

Each leg or crack in a break has a head-on angle and a profile. You must know the difference. The profile is the side of the crack (45 degree angle) and is the angle you watch to see the resin fill. The head-on angle does not change and will always be there. You cannot tell if the resin is filling the break if you are looking at the head-on angle. See The United States Windshield Repair Guidelines for diagrams of the head-on angle and profile of the crack and follow those guidelines when the break is in the acute area.

WINDSHIELD REPAIR PROCEDURE

All winshield repairs, stone damage and cracks begin with these initial steps. The actual repair does not start until after the second pressure cycle. Everything before is just preliminary. The quicker the technician becomes at getting to that second pressure cycle, the quicker all repairs will go.

1. Assess the damage: Consider how will you repair it, what will you expect it to look like upon completion?

a) Place mirror on the inside of the windshield so that you can see the break.

b) Determine location and profile of legs (star break).

c) Determine if wet, or if the windshield needs to cool.

d) Is the impact point very large? If so do the large pit procedure first.

e) Wearing your safety glasses, probe the impact point. Take the sharp point of your probe and in a circular motion move around inside the impact point removing any little chips of glasses or dirt. This will clear the path for the resin to flow. If there is no bullseye then you will be drilling.

PREPARING YOUR WINDSHIELD REPAIR TOOL

Piston Cylinder

1. With the windshield repair resin you will be using for the glass repair lubricate the two o-rings on the bottom of the piston and twist the piston into the cylinder until the o-rings are on the smooth part of the cylinder chamber (which is when the threads are no longer showing).

2. Considering the size of the damaged the average break will use 2-4 drops of windshield repair resin, place 10-15 drops of windshield repair resin into the cylinder, which is enough for 5-7 repairs, place the large o-ring on the bottom of the cylinder until the o-rings are on the smooth part of the cylinder chamber. The threads will not be showing.

3. Twist the cylinder into the bridge or holding structure, but do not go past the bottom of the bridge.

4. Lubricate the suction cups of the bridge with a small dab of Vaseline.

5. Bring the windshield repair resin up to the O-Ring so to remove all the air from the cylinder, until it touches the O-Ring. This will prevent the resin from spilling out when you turn it over to mount it.

6. Mount the Crack Master on the windshield and center the cylinder over the impact point.

6. Twist the cylinder and the leveling screw in the back until the cylinder is flush against the windshield and the bridge is level. Leveling bolt should contact the glass first so the resin does not spill out of the cylinder.

YOU ARE READY TO START THE REPAIR

Objective: To completely fill the break with windshield repair resin using as little pressure as possible.

Method: Vacuum and Pressure. This method is achieved by turning the piston head counter-clockwise for vacuum and clockwise for pressure.

1. Vacuum for 10 seconds by twisting the piston head counter-clockwise a until the threads are almost visible. Note: piston is up.

2. Pressure for 10 seconds by twisting the piston head clockwise a few turns. You will see windshield repair resin begin to flow into the break. Use enough pressure to get the o-ring to rise slightly. Leave the piston on pressure for about 1 minute. Note: piston is down.

3. Vacuum again for 10 seconds to 1 minute.

4. Pressure for 2 or 4 minutes. Leave the tool in this mode and...

5. Check your break to be sure it has completely filled. See picture below is almost filled. For a star break you will need to check the profile of each leg. If the break is not filled, please see the next section “Techniques to completely fill the break”.

6. Cure your glass repair using your ultraviolet light provided in your windshield repair kit for two minutes while keeping the tool in the pressure cycle. ALWAYS CURE IN THE PRESSURE CYCLE TO COMPENSATE FOR SKRINKAGE.

7. Remove the holding structure by sliding your small screwdriver under the suction cups to pop them off. Cover the head of your injector with the injector cap to prevent leaking of unused resin.

8. Pit Fill by leaving a drop of the windshielod repair resin you used in the repair or by placing a drop of your pit filler above the impact point and allowing it to roll into the impact point (this prevents air bubbles) and cover with a film tab. Be sure no bubble has been created under the tab.

9. Cure the pit for 1 or 2 minutes using direct sunlight or your UV lamp.

10. Peel off the film tab.

11. Using a fresh razor blade, scrape off the excess resin by holding the blade at a 90- degree angle. DO NOT SLICE IT OFF because this could pull resin out of the impact area. It should feel smooth when you are done. If it does not, repeat the Pit Filling steps 8 and 9 and 10 and try again.

12. Polish the pit. Shake up your bottle of pit polish and apply a small drop to the damage. Attach your polishing wheel and buff to your satisfaction, adding more polish if necessary.

13. Clean the entire windshield. (It’s the extras that make a big difference). DO NOT spray cleaner directly on the fresh repair.

NOTE:

Fresh razor blades leave a smoother less noticeable blemish

To probe more efficiently and quickly, go around once and probe all legs of the star break to see which are filling and which are not. Concentrate on the ones that appear to be filling first because probing these will often help the others open and fill. Go to each leg in turn and probe until filled. If a star break has multiple legs and all but a few fill, you may need to drill them.

TECHNIQUES TO COMPLETELY FILL THE BREAK

Many times just vacuum and pressure cycles will not completely fill the break.. The following are different techniques that when properly used, will make you the best. Learn them all.

1. Piston Pressure: Increase pressure by twisting the piston clockwise. Be careful not to “flower” the break and be careful if the windshield is hot.

2. Flexing: Flexing opens the crack (or legs of the star breaks) up wider allowing the windshield repair resin to flow, overfilling the break so that when you release the pressure you have applied with your probe, the break closes back up and the resin will move closer to the tips.

How to flex: Take your probe or Star Flexor Tool in your windshield repair kit and push on the leg of the star break that is not filled until you see resin crawl further up the tips. Press and hold until leg is filled. Push at the base of the leg first and ease out towards the point or end of the leg. BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL DOING THIS ON A HOT WINDSHIELD. You could cause the leg to crack further. You can usually press harder on a cold windshield. Also see our newsletter website (www.windshieldrepairjournal.com) for more information on the Star-Leg Flexor or see pages 28-30 of this manual.

3. Manual Pressure Pushing: While in the pressure cycle, take your thumb or finger and gently press on the piston, easy does it. Press and release, press and release. Watch the resin move and fill the break. ALWAYS press gently.

4. Pressure Pushing and Flexing: Simultaneously doing manual pressure (#3) and flexing (#2) is very effective and fast.

5. Bridge Pressure: Twist the cylinder, the leveling screw, or both. This will cause more pressure on the suction cups which in turn puts more pressure on the resin when in the pressure cycle.

6. Drill: When all else fails cure, then go back and drill the unfilled section, leg or tip. This is covered in the next section.

7. Apply heat: Use heat as your last resort . Use a small lighter, vehicle lighter, mini-torch for 3-5 seconds on the inside of the glass. Once you have applied heat, you cannot increase the pressure. Applying heat causes the glass to expand, which will close the crack and force the air out. When the glass cools, it will contract and hopefully the glass repair resin will be sucked in. On a cold windshield using a blow dryer or heat gun is the best method and you should heat the area (8-12 inches) in a circular motion. Heating just the break can cause the break to crack.

DRILLING

DRILL AND CHARGER TAPPER AND NEEDLE

To Drill or Not to Drill?

The drill is your best friend. The better you drill, the better technician you will be.

When to drill:

1. Look to see if there is a black circle underneath the impact point. If there is, you will most likely NOT need to drill. This black circle is the bullseye of the break. If there is not one, you will drill and create one. The bullseye indicates that there is a space/passage way that will allow resin to flow into the break.

2. Another way to determine whether or not to drill is to put one drop of 20 cps on the impact point. If you notice it seeping into the break, you do not need to drill.

Many damages will require drilling and through experience and practice you will learn how to tell when you should or won’t have to, just by glancing at the break.

Objective: Drill the smallest, most inconspicuous hole possible.

Drilling Tapping a Bullseye

Setting Up the Drill:

Loosen the head of the drill in your windshield repair kit. Insert the drill bit and tighten the drill head.

1. Drill about ½ of the way through the first layer of glass. DO NOT go all the way through the first layer of glass. If you do, you will hit the laminate (plastic) and cause a permanent mark on the laminate.

2. Place the bullseye tapper needle into the drilled hole.

3. Tap the needle with the tapper just hard enough the create a mini-bullseye. This will make a good size hole and allow the resin to flow into the area very easily.

4. Mount your holding structure with injector and fill the drilled area using vacuum/pressure cycles.

5. Cure under pressure for 2 minutes. (Cure time may vary with the intensity of your UV light).

6. Fill the pit, cure and polish.

Drilling is very important. You will be using it in many situations.

PRACTICE: Go to a glass shop and get a 12X12 or 24X24 inch piece of laminated glass or purchase a iwndshield a place it on a rack or two saw horses. Drill and tap 10 bullseyes per day for a week and you will be proficient by the end of the week.

TROUBLE SHOOTING

1. Flowering: This is another reason choosing the proper windshield repair resin is important. Generally flowering occurs when you are using a resin that is too thin on a hot windshield. Use a thicker resin or make sure the glass is cool before beginning the repair. Using too much pressure, spreading the resin out and beyond the break can also cause flowering.

2. Black Spots: Caused by not curing the break long enough under pressure and mostly seen in bullseyes.

3. Spotty or Dirty Appearance: This is cause by contamination of the break either by your lubricant, moisture or very old break.

4. Cylinder O-Ring not fitting: If your o-ring does not stay on the cylinder, it may be due to cured resin on the cylinder or the o-ring has swelled. Please see the Cleaning and Maintenance section and/or replace the o-ring.

5. Large Impact: DO NOT REPAIR THIS DAMAGE IF IT IS WITHIN THE DRIVER’S LINE OF VISION!

Large impacts fall into 3 categories; all can be repaired with this technique.

1. Impact area larger than the injector o-ring;

2. Significant amount of glass missing at the impact;

3. Multiple impact points.

Considerations for repair:

a) An airtight space needs to be created which can be used to deliver the

resin under pressure and to remove the air under vacuum.

b) The more of the crushed glass that is removed before the impact area is sealed, the clearer the resulting blemish will be when the repair is complete.

d) The repair technique for these types of damages must be chosen at your initial assessment. You cannot re-do a repair with this technique.

6. The repair cured while repairing: You were not working in true shade. The shade of a tree is not adequate. UV rays cure your resin and unless these are blocked the windshield repair resin will cure. Something solid must be used; cardboard, plasticized canvas, artist board, etc.

Newest Technology

1. X-Phobic - Rain-X remover and break cleaner

2. Xtra Bond – Adhesion promoter – increases adhesive bond to the glass

3. Star Flexor – Flexes stone breaks and the legs of stars open so to completely fill breaks.

Rain-X Removal for Windshield Repair

X-Phobic - hydrophobic coating remover (patent pending) is for the removal of Rain-X to allow windshield repair adhesives to bond to the windshield glass avaliable as a pre-treament and an additve. Without removal of Rain-X the windshield repair resin will be blocked from the glass and the stone break or crack cannot be repaired. This will cause the consumer to have to pay hundreds of dollar for a new windshield and the windshield repair technician loses a repair job. Currently windshield repair technicians are losing hundreds of dollars per month due to the presence of Rain-X on the windshield.

This chemical mixture is a Rain-X remover for windshield repair and it will also remove carwash wax and detergents, moisture and other contaminants.

Directions: Some technicians are reporting that Rain-X is on 40% of windshields. Ask every customer before doing a repair if they have used Rain-X or have in their windshield washer fluid. You ca also test every windshield for Rain-X before starting the repair by placing a drop or two of water on the windshield surface. If it beads and rolls, there is a hydrophobic coating, most likely Rain-X. If the water rolls down and leaves a line of water then there is none.

Directions for Stone break: The Additive is easier and faster. Mix one drop to 4 drops of resin in your injector and stir (a toothpick works best). Then do the repair.

Directions for a crack: Mix one drop to four to five drops of resin, then do the repair.

Purchase Price: One bottle of pre-treatment will decontaminate over 100 breaks. One bottle of Additive will do 60 breaks. Don’t lose another job to Rain-X !

The First and Only Adhesion Promoter for Windshield Repair

Xtra Bond (patent pending) is an adhesion promoter for windshield repair which will allow windshield repair adhesives to have a greater mechanical and chemical bond to the windshield glass by etching and priming the surface of the crack(s). The are three versions of Xtra Bond: (1) Additive, (2) pre-treatment and (3) primer for the Permashield.

Directions for a stone break: Use the Additive –one drop to four drops of resin mixed into your injector. Then do the repair.

Directions for a crack: The additive is easiest. Mix in your injector one drop with five to six drops of resin and stir (a toothpick works best). Pre-Treatment -Inject by capillary action. We also recommend you prime the edge area (the four inches from the edge) of an edge crack with primer resin after the Xtra Bond has evaporated. Wipe off excess on the windshield surface immediately.

Directions for the Pit only: Place a drop above the pit and allow it to roll into the pit before doing the repair. Allow to completely evaporate including any chemical that seeped into the break. Wipe off excess immediately.

Purchase Price: One bottle for $39.95 will treat over 100 breaks.

New Windshield Repair Tool Instructions

Star Flexor

Low Pressure, Low Profile High Pressure, High Profile Low & High Pressure and Profile

The #1 mistake made in the repair of a stone break is leaving a leg or legs unfilled or not completely filled to the tip(s). This new windshield repair tool eliminates that problem. The Star Flexor can flex open any unfilled section of any type of stone break.

The first photograph on the left uses the least amount of pressure with a two-inch suction cup for pressure and 1 ¾ inch suction cup for stability. These cups are also low profile so the pressure point is more blunt rather than pin point. The small bolt will allow the pressure point to be altered and raise the tip up for viewing progress when you are mounted over and parallel to a leg.

The second photograph is a three-inch suction cup with a higher profile. This will allow more pressure and pin point pressure. Pressure in all modes is controlled by the pressure bolt. The experienced technician will prefer this set up and this mode most often. Moving the cups toward the point alters the pressure and the profile. Reversing the tool also changes the pressure from pin point to blunt. Blunt can be used for flexing sections of a break, which comes in handy when using higher viscosity resins or on a star burst. Higher viscosity resins have more durability and should be used for breaks over the defroster area.

The third photo is the Star Flexor 2. This mode has the most stability and the profile can be adjusted by moving the cross bar into the four mounting holes. The fourth hole will give the highest profile and the third is where I seem to use it most often. The second hole can be used for blunt pressure to flex more than one leg at a time such as with a star burst.

Star Flexor Set-Up

Stage 1 Stage 2

Step by Step Instructions:

1. Clean the area around the break so your suctions cups have no interference from dirt on the windshield.

2. Determine which pressure and profile mode you will be using and place the cups in the proper hole. I suggest keeping your cup in the third hole as in the photo; this will be the one you use most often.

3. Use Vaseline on the suction cups to seal and maneuver. If you are going to be moving around the break to flex more than one leg you need to apply sufficient Vaseline. Insufficient Vaseline will cause more work. Vaseline cleans up easy if you wipe it off with a dry cloth first, before cleaning with a glass cleaner. Never try to remove vaseline with glass cleaner. Wipe it off first.

4. Mount the Star Flexor windshield repair tool near the leg you are going to flex. Note: When mounting suction cups to a windshield it is always better to peel back the edges and lay them on the glass rather than pushing them on. Pushing suction cups on can spread the damage on a hot or sensitive windshield.

5. Turn the bolt so that the tip lowers and almost touches the glass.

6. Slide the tool perpendicular or parallel to the leg. Perpendicular will give you a better view.

7. Carefully and slowly turn the pressure bolt which will lower the point and apply pressure until you see the leg flex or start to fill. See above photo – Stage 1. Like any windshield repair tool too much pressure can spread the damage.

8. Once you see the leg flex or start to fill STOP and let it work by itself. See above photo Stage 2. Use the least amount of pressure as is possible. Note: Windshields have a tendency to crack horizontally. Use less pressure on legs that are horizontal.

9. After the leg has filled release the pressure and remove the suction cup.

10. If you are going to do another leg then release the pressure and slide it to the other leg and repeat steps 6-9.

STARTING UP YOUR BUSINESS

There are 4 things you should immediately do to establish yourself as a business.

1) Determine the form of ownership for your business.

There are a number of different forms of ownership such as sole proprietorship,

C-corporation, S-Corporation, LLC etc. Each form of ownership has advantages and disadvantages.

You may want to seek expert advice from an attorney or an accountant.

2) Choose a name for your business.

Your name can have a significant impact on the level of success you achieve,

both in the start up phase and over the long run. Choose your name carefully

because you should expect to have it for a long, long time. Some of the criteria

to consider are:

a) A name beginning with “A” will give you the first placement in the

telephone book, such as AA Windshield Repair but most people thumb the

phone book going backwards so this is not a reason to start your business name

with an a.

b) It should be easy to remember. Catchy, related to a local landmark, such as Rocky Mountain Windshield Repair. Refrain from using names with double meanings or one that could be confused with someone else’s business. You might want to think of some logos that will give you an idea for a name. They will be tied together and should compliment each other. They should be used throughout all forms of your advertising, car, business cards, and shirts.

c) Your name should not include Ultra BOND in it, but feel free to state “using the Ultra Bond system”.

3) File a Fictitious Name statement. Contact a local newspaper or state department and tell them you need to file a fictitious name. The fees typically run from $50-$100 but the lowest fees are usually found in the smallest paper in your area. Any paper can run it.

The newspaper or state department will do a name search to see if the name you have chosen is already being used. Then they will publish your Fictitious Name Statement/DBA for the legally required time period. You normally need to obtain the Fictitious Name or DBA to obtain a business license and usually it is required to open a bank business account. However, requirements may vary from State to State.

Be aware that once the Statement is filed, you will start receiving calls from sales people. Shop carefully for the services you need and don’t buy anything you don’t absolutely need to make money. Cash flow is king.

Business License: To obtain a business license call or visit City Hall or the County Courthouse, or look in the phone book for the Business License listing to obtain further information. A small fee is charged and your license is sent in the mail.

MARKETING AND ADVERTISING

ADVERTISING MUST BE CONSISTENT! ADVERTISING MUST BE CONSISTENT!

Wherever you choose to advertise, be consistent with it. Potential customers will begin noticing your ad and you need to be there when they need you. You are offering a new and unique service and you have to educate them.

A good way to preserve your cash flow is to establish accounts with your advertising sources. Although they may require an up-front payment for your first ad, you are billed thirty days after you have been advertising and the bill is not due for another thirty days, giving you sixty days to make money on the ad before having to pay for it.

Basic Sources of Advertising:

Yellow Pages

Newspapers

Weekly Advertising Circular

RADIO

Market Study:

For all forms of advertising, you can find independent surveys that give you the most relevant demographic and consumer data available for your area. The studies indicate how many people are listening to the radio, watching t.v. or reading the newspaper. Ask media representatives for their survey and compare it to an independent one to get the most accurate information. Your local chamber of commerce should be able to direct you to those resources.

Yellow Pages:

Your market study should compare the yellow pages used in your area so you will know which is used most often. This is where most technicians advertise and is usually where the most business comes from. When a person’s windshield is cracked they will go to the phone book and start looking for the least expensive avenue to solve their problem, and this is where your large heading will be such as “DON’T REPLACE IT!” “CRACK REPAIR”.

Choosing the ad size is a bit of a guess for the first and second year, and depending on the size of the area the book covers, it can be pricey. Carefully look at the ads that you will be in with. If you go with a business card size, you need to make sure yours will stand out from the rest - add a color. A quarter page is probably ideal. Tracking your sources is very important. If you start with a business card size ad and you get 75 customers that year from that ad, then you increase your ad size and you get 200 customers, you know your increase was worth it. If you jump to a half page and you only get 175 customers, you’ll know you went too large. Also, if you have this information when your yellow page representative comes, you will know what you want and you won’t be pressured into something else. They are in sales, remember. Yellow pages are billed monthly, giving you 30 days before the bill is due.